This unit applies to those working as climbing guides or assistant guides in a range of natural single pitch conditions.

This unit may also apply to leaders working for outdoor education or adventure providers; volunteer groups; not-for-profit organisations or government agencies.

Nil

ELEMENT

PERFORMANCE CRITERIA

1. Plan for the climbing activity.

1.1. Identify and plan food and water requirements according to principles of nutrition and the duration of the activity.

1.2. Identify and select an appropriate activity site according to relevant legislation and organisational policies and procedures.

1.3. Identify associated hazards and procedures to minimise risks to climber and belayer on single pitch natural surfaces.

1.4. Access relevantsources to interpret detailed weather and environmental information to determine activity plan.

1.5. Establish a suitable communication system to use while climbing and belaying with other participants.

1.6. Consider contingency plans in the case of unforeseen circumstances.

2. Select a route for the climb.

2.1 Identify suitable access to and egress from the climbing site, according to relevant legislation.

2.2 Select a suitable route for the climb and inspect the position and quality of features according to the capabilities of the climbing party.

2.3 Interpret a route description for the climb.

2.4 Identify and communicate route features, hazards and belay stations with climbing party members.

2.5 Determine the potential need of artificial or natural protection required for the safe ascent of the route.

3. Select and utilise equipment.

3.1. Select and use equipment according to manufacturer's specifications, according to contextual issues.

3.2. Adjust and fit equipment to ensure personal comfort and safety.

3.3. Complete all necessary personal and equipment safety checks, according to organisational policies and procedures, prior to commencement.

3.4. Demonstrate attachment to a suitable belay system at bottom of pitch, in accordance with manufacturer's specifications, and apply correct rope handling and knot tying techniques.

3.5. Apply safety procedures at the top and bottom of climbing site.

4. Demonstrate climbing techniques.

4.1. Display correct posture and fluent climbing techniques suitable to features and possible holds.

4.2. Maintain effective communication between climber and belayer throughout climb.

4.3. Locate and evaluate the main features of the climb whilst climbing.

4.4. Apply safe and correct climbing techniques to minimise injury in the event of a fall or rock fall.

4.5. Locate and utilise rest positions to reduce fatigue.

4.6. Negotiate obstacles and avoid or remove hazards to climb in a controlled manner.

4.7. Use equipment in a manner that minimises damage to the environment.

5. Ascend a single pitch route as a second climber.

5.1. Demonstrate use of belaying system to maximise climber safety at all times.

5.2. Remove artificial protection in a manner which minimises damage to the equipment and environment, with and without the use of a nut tool.

5.3. Use slings to optimise a placement and to minimise equipment loss or damage

6. Ascend a single pitch route as a lead climber.

6.1. Set up anchors and belay system safely and efficiently.

6.2. Select and use suitable natural, fixed or artificial protection for the chosen climb and rack protection so that it is accessible during the climb.

6.3. Place protection periodically throughout the climb to reduce fall distance, after consideration of the possible direction and magnitude of force during a fall and the second's ability and safety.

6.4. Apply correct techniques to minimise rope drag, displacement of artificial protection and injury in the event of a fall.

6.5. Retreat from pitches both greater than and less than 25m in length.

6.6. Select solid and secure anchors at the top of the pitch, or place artificial protection.

6.7. Establish a belay system at the top of the pitch which maximises climber and belayer safety at all times.

7. Demonstrate belaying technique.

7.1. Establish belaying position by moving body in relation to chosen belay device that allows effective use of belay system.

7.2. Demonstrate a safe and efficient escape from belay system.

7.3. Perform all safety checks according to organisational policies and procedures to ensure belayer safety in the event of a climber fall or rockfall.

7.4. Maintain rope tension to ensure fall distance is minimised whilst not restricting climber movement.

7.5. Monitor climber progress constantly and respond appropriately to climber calls.

7.6. Arrest falls promptly using technique suitable to the belaying device and situation.

8. Evaluate climbing activity.

8.1. Evaluate relevant aspects of lead climbing and belaying.

8.2. Identify improvements for future second and lead climbing activities.

Required skills

communication skills to inform progress and interact with climber and or belayer whilst participating in activity

problem-solving skills to:

determine type of protection to use and where to place it to minimise fall distance during lead climbing

select a suitable route to match participants' ability

rope handling, rigging and knot tying skills to maintain adequate rope tension when climbing and belaying on a single pitch site

first aid and emergency response skills appropriate to the location to enable initial response to emergencies and personal health care.

Required knowledge

relevant legislation and organisational policies and procedures to enable safe conduct of all activities

minimal impact climbing codes to enable protection of the environment

equipment types, characteristics and technology used for lead climbing on natural surfaces, the advantages and disadvantages of the range of equipment, and factors affecting appropriate selection of equipment

care and maintenance of climbing equipment to ensure prolonged life span and safety requirements

lead climbing techniques and common communication methods and calls used between climbers and belayers to reduce risk during lead climbing on natural surfaces

belay techniques and devices appropriate for single pitch surfaces

technical climbing knowledge of various types of protection, ropes, knots and anchors used on single pitch natural surfaces

weather and environmental information to ascertain possible conditions and their affect on the activity

hazards and fall factors that may be experienced during lead climbs on natural surfaces

emergency procedures, potential hazards and obstacles relevant to the location to ensure safety of self and others.

The evidence guide provides advice on assessment and must be read in conjunction with the performance criteria, required skills and knowledge, range statement and the Assessment Guidelines for the Training Package.

Overview of assessment

Critical aspects for assessment and evidence required to demonstrate competency in this unit

Evidence of the following is essential:

applies relevant processes to plan for lead climbing activity and describes suitable route to take

selects and fits equipment independently and carries out safety checks to ensure effective working order

places protection at sufficient distances apart to reduce the distance of climber fall and removes and safely carries protection during second climbing

communicates effectively to monitor progress when belaying and to organise climbing group at belay stations safely and efficiently

negotiates obstacles and hazards during lead climbing, and adapts quickly to problems or issues that may arise to ensure safety of self and other participants

evaluates and reflects on own lead climbing and belaying performance to identify strengths, weaknesses and areas for improvement.

Context of and specific resources for assessment

Assessment must ensure participation in multiple lead climbing and belaying activities on single pitch natural surfaces to demonstrate competence and consistency of performance.

Assessment must also ensure access to:

resources and information regarding lead climbing and belaying, to accurately plan for the activity

suitable natural single pitch climbing sites with obstacles and features that allow participant to demonstrate lead climbing skills and belaying

other climbing participants, to assist with belaying and second climbing

equipment such as harnesses, helmets, belay devices, ropes, protection, nut tools, gloves, karabiners, climbing shoes and first aid equipment.

Method of assessment

A range of assessment methods should be used to assess practical skills and knowledge. The following examples are appropriate for this unit:

oral or written questioning to assess knowledge of relevant legislation and organisational policies and procedures to enable safe conduct of all climbing activities

observation of safe participation and demonstration of lead climbing skills, such as placing protection periodically and communicating with belayer to inform of progress

observation of dealing with contingencies, such as equipment failure or change in weather

third-party reports from a supervisor detailing performance.

Holistic assessment with other units relevant to the industry sector, workplace and job role is recommended, for example:

SISOVTR301A Perform vertical rescues

SISOCLN303A Establish belays for climbing on natural surfaces.

Guidance information for assessment

The range statement relates to the unit of competency as a whole. It allows for different work environments and situations that may affect performance. Bold italicised wording, if used in the performance criteria, is detailed below. Essential operating conditions that may be present with training and assessment (depending on the work situation, needs of the candidate, accessibility of the item, and local industry and regional contexts) may also be included.

Food and water requirements may include:

range of foods:

perishability

packaging

storage.

Principles of nutrition may include:

food groups

dietary guidelines.

Relevant legislation may include:

occupational health and safety

permits or permission for access

environmental regulations.

Organisational policies and procedures may include:

operating procedures and company or enterprise policies

occupational health and safety

use and maintenance of equipment

communication protocols

emergency procedures

code of ethics.

Hazards may include:

temperature extremes

slippery or unstable terrain

dangerous animals and insects

stinging trees and nettles

dense vegetation

group management hazards.

Risks may include:

hypothermia

heat exhaustion

injuries

exhaustion

lost party or party member

equipment failure.

Natural surfaces may include:

cliffs

boulders.

Relevant sources may include:

Bureau of Meteorology

media

land managers or agencies

local knowledge.

Weather and environmental information may include:

satellite images

daily and weekly forecasts

maximum and minimum temperatures

weather warnings

event warnings

river levels

synoptic charts

high and low tide predictions.

Communication system may include:

calls

radio

hand signals

whistles.

Contingency plans may include:

poor communication conditions

injuries

escape or retreat options

off route possibilities.

Unforeseen circumstances may include:

equipment failure

change of route

unresolvable obstacle or hazard

dramatic change of weather

climber or belayer injury.

Features may include:

aretes

chimneys

corners

cracks

edges

flakes

jugs

ledges

overhangs.

Capabilities may include:

body weight ratio

strength

stamina

flexibility

balance

mental perceptions.

Route description may include:

verbal

written.

Equipment may include:

helmets

karabiners

harnesses

climbing shoes

belay device

chalk and calk bag

tapes and slings

ropes and cord.

nuts

spring loaded caming devices

quick draws

hexes

tut tool

Contextual issues may include:

weather conditions, including times

season

transport

location

trip distance and duration

group objectives

group size.

Safety checks may include:

A - anchors - secure and suitable to application

B - buckles - locked as per manufacturers recommendations

C - connectors - locked, secured and orientated

D - devices - threaded correctly and secured

E - everything else including end of rope knots, friction hitches, belayer ready, helmet chin strap, clothing, jewellery and hair secured

F - friend - cross check.

Belay system may include:

top belay

bottom belay

single rope

double rope.

Knot tying may include:

figure eight

Bowline.

Climbing techniques may include:

bridging

dynamic movement, such as dead pointing

heel hooks

jamming

lay backing

layaways and side pulls

mantle

pinch grips

smearing

underclings.

crimping

chimneying.

Rest positions may include:

edge to lean against

ledge to lean against.

No hands rest.

Obstacles may include:

ledges

overhangs

squeezes

traverses

vegetation.

Anchors may include:

multi-directional

uni-directional

self-equalising.

Protection may include:

artificial

fixed

natural.

Belaying position may include:

top of the pitch

bottom of the pitch.

Belay device may include:

plate device

tube device

auto locking device.

hitch such as munter or Italian.

Belayer safety may include:

wearing of helmets

attaching to safety ropes

standing out of direct line of rock or gear fall.

Relevant aspects may include:

objectives

planning process

activity site

weather

equipment selection

clothing selection

food selection

instructional content

instructional technique

assessment technique

group feedback

directing techniques

rescue techniques employed.

Unit sector

Outdoor Recreation

Climbing-natural surface

This unit contains employability skills.